Nicasio History

Actually, I say ni-kash’-oh and find myself cringing whenever I hear the latter, ni-kah’-see-oh.  As if this mispronunciation weren’t pretentious enough, it is often those who say “ni-kah’-see-oh” who feel compelled to correct–almost as if they were embarrassed for me, the author who can’t pronounce the name of the town about which she wrote! For shame. After recently perusing Charles Elster’s Big Book of Beastly Mispronunciations, now in its second edition, I felt inspired to set the record straight.

First, since my family arrived in Nicasio in 1901, they have known no other pronunciation–that is until recent years, and mostly from out-of-towners (probably the same folks who think Lucas Valley Road was named for George Lucas, but I digress). My grandmother always believed that the Indian for whom the town was named would never have pronounced his name ni-kah’-see-oh. I tend to agree.

You see, this is Indian territory. Nicasio was once home to the Coast Miwok village of Echatamal and likely named for the Tamal Indian and alcalde, Guequistabal, who according to records at Mission Dolores was baptized as Nicasio (for St. Nicasius) in 1802. Would he have oh-so-delicately introduced himself as ni-kah’-see-oh? I think not.

In my quest for a definitive answer, and accepting that, perhaps, I come from a long line of illiterate buffoons, I checked with local historian, Dewey Livingston, who confirmed that ni-kash’-oh is historically the correct pronunciation. In addition to my grandmother’s observation, he also points to older publications which frequently misspelled the town’s name as Nicassio, supporting at least phonetically it was more likely being pronounced “sh” than not. Lending further credence to this thesis, 1000 California Place Names: Their Origin and Meaning (1959) cites “ni-kash’-oh” as the only pronunciation.

So there.

With so many California towns derived from Spanish names, the confusion is understandable. Plus for many years, this Marin County hamlet was largely off the radar until it was discovered by cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts, bringing a large influx of tourists (large compared to the modest number of residents). It’s no wonder the name is slowly evolving into something it never was–many have lost sight of how much here is named for the Native Americans too. So, it’s up to you–say ni-kah’-see-oh, ya know, ‘cuz all the cool kids are doing it, or help preserve the historical integrity of this town and it’s name, Ni-kash’-oh.

Map provided courtesy of the Anne T. Kent California Room Collection, Marin County Free Library.

In 1867, William J. Miller built the Nicasio Hotel, a deluxe 22 room, three story hotel. The price tag, including furnishings: $11,000. The grand hotel drew a fashionable clientele from San Francisco who rode the train to San Geronimo. Greeted by Hiram Taft they arrived in town via stage. Many of these people were drawn by Nicasio’s racetrack as well as its bountiful hunting and fishing opportunities.

The hotel played host to an array of folks and was a center of social life in Nicasio. In its prime, people socialized at dances held in the ballroom, which were usually followed by a midnight supper. It was also frequently the reception hall for nuptials held at St. Mary’s Church across the square.

Over the years, the hotel management changed hands numerous times. From 1910-1915, my grandfather, Gus Lafranchi, was at the reigns. During this time my grandmother, Mary Lafranchi, was responsible for cleaning all twenty-two rooms plus cooking for the farm hands who would come to eat at the hotel’s restaurant.

In the years before prohibition, the hotel’s bar was a profitable venture, but time was taking its toll. By 1940, the hotel had lost most of its luster, and as a final blow, on December 15 of that year, the Nicasio Hotel was leveled by a fire. Apparently ignited by a burning cigarette left unattended on the bar, onlookers watched helplessly at the devastating inferno. This rare photo of the burning structure was taken by Vernon “Doc” Smith.

Today the Rancho Nicasio stands in its place.

Facing the town square, St. Mary’s Church has greeted Nicasio visitors for more than a century and has been a favorite subject of photographers and artists for nearly as long. Built in 1867, the church was constructed from locally milled redwood at a cost of $3,000 – money that was raised by the townspeople. Nicasio pioneer William J. Miller donated the land, deeding it to Archbishop Joseph S. Alemany, who dedicated the church in October 1867. The belfry holds a Sheffield bell cast in England in 1858 and obtained from the Sonoma Mission “San Francisco Solano de Sonoma.”  Inside, handsome redwood pews form a  path to the altar which was designed by James A. Magee, a San Geronimo architect. Statues adorning either side were donated by parishioners in memory of lost loved ones.

Father Harrington of Petaluma was installed as the first pastor, riding on horseback to Nicasio for services. The church became a mission of the Sausalito parish and later a mission of the Olema parish, along with St. Cecilia’s in Lagunitas. At some point in the 1940s, the church adopted the name “Our Lady of Lorretto,” possibly because a Novato parish of the same name served St. Mary’s for a period.

The turnover of governing parishes brought a flux of priests to St. Mary’s; however, a handful do stand out. Among the more memorable was Father Leo Taeyaerts, who because no one could pronounce his name was known simply as “Father Leo.” Father Leo was a Sacred Heart missionary from Belgium who arrived in the teens and served the parish for approximately 20 years. In 1952, Father John Connery arrived, serving the community for 25 years. It was through his good offices that the church land was augmented 1957 when the Redding family donated additional land on the north side of the church.  Father Timothy J. Monahan left his mark too by successfully having the church’s original name, St. Mary’s, restored.

On Christmas Day 1921, a wind storm toppled the steeple and knocked the church off its foundation. Aside from the storm repairs, the church remained otherwise unaltered until a number of improvements were performed in 1958 by local carpenters Joseph Dentoni, Sr. and Henry Beneken. Their work included the addition of a front porch to provide weather protection for the original redwood doors, along with a new roof.

For the majority of Nicasio families, St. Mary’s Church has been an integral part of the community, many of whom received their first sacrament here. Throughout the years, St. Mary’s has remained a remained a Bay Area favorite for nuptials, with the Nicasio town square providing the ideal backdrop.

In 1967, at 100 years of age, St. Mary’s Church was declared a historical monument by the Native Sons and Daughters of the Golden West, an event celebrated with much fanfare. The bronze plaque installed in front notes the church’s dedication by Archbishop Joseph Alemany.

Agostino “Gus” Lafranchi, originally from Coglio, Switzerland, first arrived in Nicasio in 1901 at the age of seventeen.  His mother, Maria Lafranchi, and sister, Linda Marioni, had already established themselves in town as operators of Marioni’s Resort and the American Exchange. By 1903, a young man in search of adventure, he took off with some friends for the Klondike, hoping to stake a claim.  With a handful of gold nuggets in his pocket, he returned to California where he set up an Italian grocery store in Sausalito.  This is where he met his future bride, Mary Canepa. By 1910, he returned to Nicasio where he bought a five year lease on the Nicasio Hotel. 

When his lease on the hotel ended, he bought a house on the town square and converted part of it into a small saloon, the Nicasio Exchange.  He also ran a trucking business out of the adjacent barn. In 1920, the bar was closed because of Prohibition, but he continued with his trucking business until 1925.  In 1927, when Nicasio pioneer Frank Rodgers decided to relocate, Gus bought the Rodgers’ store, which included the local post office as well as the town’s magneto telephone exchange. Gus continued to run the store until his untimely death in 1942.